Lizards As Pets Lizard Facts

greg answers:

Cheak it out on the internet. (Google would do good) (:

greg answers:

An adult bearded dragon should be getting a lot of dark green leafy veg, some veg and a small amount of fruit, it should actually make up the majority of the diet so your BF is feeding the dragon very wrongly.

Here’s more info:

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/

greg answers:

Get a Bearded Dragon. They are pretty hardy and dont require huge amounts of care, but enough that you have to be responsible with them. Be sure to do a TON of research and just dont run out the door right now and get one. They may be something you dont want to care for. I like they. I am not the greatest with reptiles but I have a snake and then got 2 Bearded Dragons because someone dumped them on the doorstep of the shelter I work at. They are fun and intresting and I learn alot about lizards with them.

greg answers:

The best thing to do would be follow your heart. If you get something other than an iguana just to get something different, but you really want an iguana, will you actually get the bond simalar to the one you had with the little one or will you regret not getting the pet you really wanted. Then again 3 fully grown iguanas are going to take an awfull lot of food and room. Leo’s are lovely and make great pets as long as you can get hold of food for them. Can you not buy food over the internet?
Maybe just take a few trips to local rep shops and wait to see what captures your heart, there will be something that you cant bear to leave the shop without. When you find it, do your research then go for it.

greg answers:

YOU CANNOT keep those 2 together for a single second. The odds are that the iguana is getting fungus because the leo stresses it. Also leos are from the desert iguanas are from the tropics. Also I am pretty sure you are 2 young to be on here and someone under the age of 18 could never keep an iguana healthy! Iguanas are the absolute most difficult REPTILE not lizard. REPTILE to take care of. Your playing yourself thinking you can pull this off. Starting off with such an unhealthy specimen is like mission impossible! You need to take that iguana to a herp vet and have it put down, I am sorry but there is no hope if it has fungus. By this stage his systems are shutting down.

If you are getting the leo from this guy 2 you want to take it to the vet to see if it is OK. They can be kept in pairs or even large family groups. Never house 2 males together as they will fight. You can have one male and as many females as you like. A professional written book says that 1 male and 2-3 females can live in a 10 gallon tank but you should add 5 gallons for every extra female so a 20 gallon can keep one male and 5 females. But you should not keep one male and one female as he may over breed her and kill her. If you keep males and females they will lay eggs and maybe you can sell the babies. Lay a tray of soil in the cage where she can burry them. If she does not find a laying sight she will withhold them until she dies. Also you need an incubator for the eggs. Good luck and I am so so sorry about the iguana

greg answers:

I have several desert lizards, and actually had a dhl for a few years in the past. The lighting I have been using for the past couple years over 20L’s is a combination of 2 things. For uv, I have a flourecent uv (I use zoo med 10.0) and then for heat, a separate dome fixture with a GE soft white floodlight R20 size 50 watt (they are now like 45-47 watts or so due to the whole “go green” thing). They are available at walmart and many other stores. Yellow package, in a 2-pack. Small sized bulbs, about like a regular incandecant, but shaped like a floodlamp.
They are very efficient- directing nearly all the heat down- rather than heating everything around them.

Both bulbs are placed over the “hot” end of the cage.

Over one end of a 20L, the R20 bulb will provide a peak basking spot of 110-115 degrees in a fairly tight circle, with a nice sized area around that at 100 degrees, while still allowing the other end of the tank to stay near or at room temp. This is perfect for desert lizards(in my opinion anyhow). My long nosed leopard lizards and side blotched lizards have been thriving this way. The side blotches actually laid a few clutches of eggs this year.

Mercury vapors are nice, but I would be concerned that they would be overkill for a smaller tank like a 20 Long. They are generally made for much larger tanks.

Hope this helps.

By the way, you probably know of this site already, but just in case;http://www.phrynosoma.org/

greg answers:

Http://exoticpets.about.com/od/lizardsaspets/a/lizardspets.htm

greg answers:

Well no lizard is really harmless because they carry salmonella. You should always wash your hands after handling any lizard. I think a gecko is a great starter reptile. They are easy to maintain, have a simple diet and have easy clean cages. You will need a heat lamp and a uv lamp. The uv lamp mimics sunlight and helps with their digestive and shedding process. The heat lamp is needed as they are cold blooded and require warm temperatures and a basking spot. Their meal consists mainly of crickets and/or mealworms. Make sure mealworms heads are crushed prior to feeding or they will eat through the lizard….crickets have no concern. They will also need a calcium supplement that you would gently shake onto the food. They need a substrate that will hold moisture such as a moss and dirt combo. Some plastic plants and a cave or log as a hiding place and a shallow water dish. Their cage will need spritzed with water twice a day. Some geckos can climb glass where others are only bottom dwellers. Leopard geckos are a bit more interractive than a house gecko or other glass climbing gecko. The cage needs cleaned completely approximately every 6 months, however dead crickets, shedded skin and feces should be scooped out regularly. A taller tank is best for side climbing geckos, where more floor room is better for ground lizards. A small gecko does not require veterinary care but a larger lizard such as an iquana or bearded dragon should have an available veterinarian. Once you get used to lizards and their care, a bearded dragon is a great reptile pet as well. They are desert lizards and do not require the same humidity as a gecko.

Most geckos shouldn’t be handled, most will indeed run and can be injured or even loose their tail. A lizard you can handle with similar care is a skink…some skinks are desert animals and others need humidity. The fire skink is beautiful and needs care similar to a gecko. Skinks who are handled at a younger age or frequently are a good thing to look for…some skinks will need to get used to you and they can bite if they are scared.

greg answers:

Reptiles are awesome! Not all of us find it unattractive if you have pet lizards.

greg answers:

Since you said one is the male, i’m assuming one is a female. I had 2 lizards in the same cage once [male and female] but the male was to territorial and agressive. Some times you just get a real territorial lizard that wants the cage completely to himself.
Either sell one or seperate them into different cages, if you leave them they may kill each other.

greg answers:

Blue tongue skinks are great lizards. They’re not vegetarians, however, and eat about 50% vegetables and 50% meat products. I’ve owned and raised them for years, and for the meat part, I feed them canned cat food, scrambled eggs, or cooked chicken. I’ve never had to feed them live animals.

greg answers:

If you had a controled enviroment which mantained the tempature and humidity you woldn’t need. That is the problem in its self. You need some sort of heat sorce and a bulb that provides UVa & UVb, but full spectrum is preffured. Do not use heat rocks. Use a heating pad that you can control the tempature, use a flat rock under a light for the basking area.
Check out these sites for ideas and supplies you may need

http://www.cagesbydesign.com/

order the catalog

http://zoomed.com/cm/Home.html

http://www.helixcontrols.com

Do some research on the different lizards and see what if any you like and care take care of.

greg answers:

Hey, leopard geckos are brilliant for beginners and experts, they really are an amazing pet and here is a fact sheet for you:
The Leopard Gecko
Leopard Geckos are one of the easiest and widely kept species of lizard. With their calm natured, easy to care for, they make great beginner pets. The amount of different morphs that are now available, you will be spoilt for chose!

What does a Leopard Gecko look like?
They have small bumps all over the body with the underside being smooth. Their tail is very fat to confuse predators in the wild, not knowing which is the head or tail. If the predator attacks the tail, the gecko drops this and then runs for cover to escape. They do grow their tails back, but they never look as nice! Adult Geckos can reach a size of 250mm (9″) and weight from 50-100 grams.

Leopard Geckos now range in a number of different morph, here are just a few: normal, high yellow, leucistic and albino.

Where are Leopard Geckos from?
They are found in dry, rocky areas from eastern Iran through Afghanistan and Pakistan to northwestern India.

This species needs a temperature of 28-32C (82-90F) at the warm end of the viv, the cool end should be around room temperature. Heating the viv can be maintained with a heat mat or a basking lamp connected to a thermostat. The humidity needs to be dry within the viv, with an exception of a humidity hide. This hide will help the geckos to shed their old skin and must be kept humid at all times.

Are Leopard Geckos easy to keep?
Yes, this one of the easiest species of lizard to care for.

Geckos can be kept on their own or will live happily together – this being one male to several females. Males will fight to the death and should always be kept separate!

Geckos are terrestrial, meaning they need more floor space rather then height. UV lights can be used, but some people choose not too, due to this species being nocturnal. Use a heat mat or basking lamp for heat, as described above connected to a thermostat. The best substrate to use for adult leopard geckos is children’s play sand. If you have a young gecko, it’s best to place these on paper towel to prevent impaction, until they are approx. 6 inches long. Impaction means that the gecko has eaten the substrate and cannot pass it – causing illness! Plenty of hides should be placed throughout the viv and depending on how many geckos are housed together, at least 1 humidity hide.

A varied diet of insects should be offered, with the odd pinkie (baby mouse). For young and juvenile Geckos, feed approx. 5-15 crickets every day with the appropriate sized food. Adults can be fed every other day on 2-8 crickets, once a month try feeding a small pinkie. Any uneaten food should be removed, crickets can injury your Gecko while sleeping. You will find that your Gecko loves wax worms, only feed as treats as these are high in fat.

Hope this helps and good luck with whatever reptile you get…

greg answers:

Kind of depends on the lizard but in general 12-14 hours a day. A Lizard needs UVA and UVB light bulbs which can get expensive. Also those light bulbs need to be replaced every 3 months weather or not they still light up.
Natural sunlight is best for your lizard.

greg answers:

Google a “uromastyx” lizard

they are herbivores, most people get that lizard because it is similar to a bearded dragon but doesnt need crickets and such like bearded dragons.

Good luck

greg answers:

The best vegetarians are the uromastyx, dessert iguana, or chuckwalla. The chuckwallas are probably the most difficult because they seem to be more sensitive to accuracy of replicating their natural environment. Desert iguanas get no where near the size of green iguanas and are one of my personal favorites along with the uromastyx. All 3 of these come from very hot very dry deserts so heat and uvb will absolutely be required for proper care. There are many different species of uromastyx so do some research on what ever you choose and be thurough read many care sheets not just one and also research the natural habitats the lizard you choose comes from because that’s What you’ll have to try and replicate in their enclosure. Www.deerfernfarms.com is probably the best website I’ve seen for uromastyx info

greg answers:

A guinea pig is a nice pet, and they’re not too hard to look after.

greg answers:

The liquid millipedes secrete is a defense mechanism; a happy and healthy millie shouldnt smell at all

If they are legal where you are, giant african land snails make fantastic pets.
Also look into land hermit crabs, uromastyx lizards (although they DO need live food sometimes, particularly whilst young and still growing, as do crested geckos), birds such as finches and hookbills (zebra finches and parrotlets especially) and there are several species of beetles to consider. Rhino beetles are my favourites

greg answers:

Http://www.facebook.com/pages/Reptilicious-Exotics/158861700798691?v=info

Belongs to someone I know, she is also a courier and delivers all over the country

greg answers:

Well, you might want to cook it longer if it’s a whole year old- LOL jk… I cannot even see it. Sorry man.

greg answers:

Please do not do like the first answer says and get a green puffer, they are not tropical freshwater fish, they are brackish fish, and really aggressive, your guppies will be killed.
On that note, i would go to your local pet store and ask them what combinations go well.. Usually they are pretty good at at least that.

(not to degrade yahoo answers) but many people on here will tell you to add this or that fish simply because they are pretty.. Many times these combinations do not go well together.. People will base their opinions on what community they have in their aquariums, and its not always the most healthy community.

greg answers:

Well i really like my Fire mouth cichlids + angel fish are beautiful to look at. Discus fish are popular for there nice Colour’s and kind of marine look’s. Remember when deciding to think of the size they grow, how big your tank is. Are they compatible (all compatibility charts are not Gospel) are they nippers. (lots to consider)
Check my vid out and see what you think
http://youtu.be/nmWswQGR_L4

greg answers:

Platies, Danios, Male Guppies and assorted Tetras are great for beginners.

greg answers:

Life expectancy varies vastly between species and will of course depend entirely on how well you care for them!

I wrote an article on stocking 10 gallon tanks as this subject does come up rather a lot on YA! Have a read here:

http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Stocking_a_10_Gallon_Tank

Remember, you need to put your tank through the nitrogen cycle FIRST. And also that just because a fish is small in body DOESN’T necessarily mean it can be kept in a small tank like a 10 gallon! Zebra Danios are prime example of this, they are small and common, but are so active when they swim they really need 20 gallons plus!

greg answers:

Beginners guide to fish keeping. – start reading

http://www.fishlore.com/Beginners.htm

Now as for what fish. You have a 60l tank, and want guppies. So far so good. Good beginner fish, and suitable for that size tank.

Now what else? 60l isn’t a big tank, so that limits the options a bit, but there are some choices.
Some bottom dwelling fish like Cory catfish or Kuhli loaches?
A dwarf gourami as a “centrepiece”?
Platies?
A school of small tetras like Neons?

This page is a good guide to tank stocking.

Http://www.aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.php

You enter your tank size, and pick some fish, and it will tell you how full the tank is, and if the fish are compatible

Ian

greg answers:

Like i said , guppies and tetras won’t mix -,- mine tried to eat the guppies -,- , and mollies , will reprooduce quickly , so if you can’t take care of the little ones. Don’t think about it .
Rasboras , tetras , danios , NEON TETRA ;D , and sword tails just might work and get like tiny bottom feeders
hope i helped? .. Bye ~

greg answers:

I would go for natural, it looks better, and will match any of your room decor. I also really recommend loading up on some live plants. There are some good beginner plants you can get that only need low light. Some examples are java fern, java moss, hornwort, and some anubias. You can find them here http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/aquarium-fish-supplies.cfm?c=768
I think you should get small fish, that way you can get more. There’s a lot more to saltwater fishkeeping, so I wouldn’t get any clown fish. You could have a school of small fish like harlequin rasboras, neon or cardinal tetras, swordtails, or cherry barbs. Make sure you stick to peaceful community fish that stay under about 3 inches. Those fish mostly swim in the middle to upper levels of your tank. For the bottom you could get catfish or loaches. Avoid one’s that get too large. Some examples are albino or panda corydoras catfish, khuli loaches, and chain loaches. You could get 6+ of schooling fish, then 5 or so bottom dwellers.
Remember you’ll need to do weekly 25% water changes with a gravel vacuum and make sure you cycle the tank first. If you don’t know what that is google “the nitrogen cycle in tanks.”

greg answers:

Use pea gravel from a home improvement store, and rinse it very well. Or buy uncolored gravel from a pet store. Use real driftwood and Giant Fancy Plants. They are very realistic. They will be a bit long for a 75, but you can cut them.
Http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=6492

greg answers:

It firstly depends on how big the tank is that you’d be making your second tank. If its of reasonable size of 55 gallons then you could put a school of angel fish in it, and if it’s over 100 gallons, then you could put a small school of bala sharks in it. I’d steer clear of much bigger fish such as cichlids as they won’t go well in schools and they are definitely not calming (though colorful!). You can get lots of different colors of angel fish and they are fabulous to watch.

greg answers:

A. Let’s call the 2 alleles M (Montezuma) and m (common). Apparently, the Montezuma phenotype is always caused by a heterozygote (Mm), and the homozygote MM is lethal. Therefore, Mm x Mm crosses result in 2/3 Mm and 1/3 mm (the MM variant will die).

B. Assuming that the 2 alleles for color and dorsal fin are on different chromosomes, and inherit independently, the colors in this case are irrelevant (even though the MM variant will not be found). So heterozygous smooth (Ss) x ruffed (ss) would give 50% ruffed.

greg answers:

Yes, you can put tetras in betta fish. Just be careful that the betta is actually eating and the tetras aren’t gobbling the food up before he gets a chance to eat. The male betta fish will only be aggressive to any other fish that resemples a male betta fish. I would not try guppies. Also, you have to find non-aggressive fish. Luckily most tetras aren’t fin nippers, but there are some out there that are, so be careful. A 30 gal tank is plenty large for tetras and bettas.

Fish to watch out for:
They may pick on the betta’s fins:
Serpae tetras, Black Phantom tetras, Buenos Aires Tetras, Tiger Barbs, Silver tip tetras, mollies

The betta may pick on:
Guppies, Fancy-Tailed Goldfish, Congo Tetras, female bettas (sometimes)

Tetras are coolest when bought in schools (6+) of the same fish. They display a natural tendency school (some very tightly). Since they’re so colorful, it’s truely a beautiful sight. Here’s a sample of something I would consider:
6-8 Panda Cory catfish
12-15 Rummynose or neon tetras
4 kuhli loaches (they look like eels, but they burry themselves in the gravel)
4 otocinclus or 1 pleco (algae eaters)
some fake/real plants (you probably don’t have high light levels so plants will be limited)

You could throw in a breeding set of platties or swordtails too (1 male 2 females) or some Hatchet tetras (they stay on the surface and will jump, so you need a covered tank).

greg answers:

Mandrill baboons, Uakari are colorful primates / monkeys.

The short story:
The reason birds and insects are so colorful is the structure of their feathers, scales, or exoskeletons — Iridescence, is a property of the surface that produces multiple reflections from multi-layered surfaces.
Mammels do not generate hairs with the structure that will produce iridescence.

.

greg answers:

Do you know how to fishless cycle? You must cycle before getting fish, read up on it!

I always like to get a school of fish, a centerpiece, and bottom dwellers to balance out the tank.

For a 20 gallon, some possible schooling fish are:

8 neon tetras (my favorites)
6 head and tail light tetras
6 lemon tetras
6 pristella tetras
8 rummy nosed tetras
most types of tetra work, those are just a few types.

For a centerpiece, some types are

1 dwarf gourami
1 honey gourami
1 pearl gourami
1 betta (compatable with rummy nosed and neon tetras)

And for bottom feeders:

ghost shrimp
red cherry shrimp (colorful)
ammano shrimp (eat algae)
6 pygmy cory cats (cute and active!)

You can mix and match these, choose 1 option from each catagory. You can’t get a pleco, they get to be very large and need 30 gallons for the smallest type. Of course, these are just a few options out there, there are hundreds of possible fish.

greg answers:

I’m planning on getting some celestial pearl danios and some diamond tetras after my tank is cycled. They’re available at aquariumfish.net. They’re a little pricey after shipping but I figure you keep your fish a long time, hopefully, so might as well invest in what you want.

greg answers:

In Australia you need a license/permit and you have to buy them from a dealer.

It is illegal to own a wild caught one or to own one with out a license/permit.

greg answers:

Hi, there is no chance you can have a chameleon as a pet in Australia unless you possess a zoological licence. We can only keep native reptiles here and only if you hold a basic licence (or advanced licence depending on the species). Go to you department of sustainability and environment and you will find a listing of what you can and can’t keep.

greg answers:

You’re not. Australia does not allow non-native reptiles to be kept by private citizens. Only zoos and licensed exhibitors are allowed to have non-native reptiles. There is also a licensing system for private citizens that differs from state to state but they all restrict you to native species.

greg answers:

Godzilla should be great.

greg answers:

Yes you can keep native monitor species as pets if you have the appropriate license for your state.

So in QLD, visit www.epa.qld.gov.au to print off an application form or visit a local EPA office.

Also check out www.aussiepythons.com. Its an Australian reptile community, someone will be able to help you out with locating a breeder, and any questions you have on care and husbandry.

greg answers:

As far as i know you dont need a licence to keep pet lizards.
Well you dont in the UK or USA, Unless your keeping an alligator or something.

Try calling or visiting the local zoo and ask them

greg answers:

The list differs from state to state but this is the one you need. It is the list of species that can be kept with a basic level license in Victoria. Scroll down for reptiles.

Http://www.dse.vic.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0010/103510/Taxa_-_Basic.pdf

greg answers:

That depends on where you live. Check your local laws. For example, I live in Ohio, and as of now, there are no laws against any reptiles. In the future, if they issue a ban, I’ll have to get a license ^^ I’m NOT giving up my babies.

greg answers:

Pet shops are usually ok places to buy lizards from…they aren’t always ideal, but it’s not as bad as buying a puppy there. There are reptile breeders (and this would obviously be the best place to get one). From my experience, a caring breeder will allow you to come and check out all of their lizards and other reptiles (I doubt they would do this at a place that doesn’t take great care of them). To find them, just type in your location (or where you would be willing to travel to) and “reptile breeder” into the google search engine. Good luck

greg answers:

You can probably get one freighted to you if you contact Australian breeders, but you’ll have to check with the council- I’m not Tasmanian!

greg answers:

A bearded dragon is a good choice it should be a good experience for him but you should always supervise him with it. Just remember that it won’t be cuddly like a dog or cat but it will be a good little companion for him the disadvantages are
-not cuddly
-can be skittish
- Initial cost expensive
- eat crickets

pros
- eat veggies
-mostly friendly
-live long time
-cool
-hardy

Not all of them are friendly and they have boundaries
i have 2 one Stewie is a little baby and is the perfect beardie my other tigger is the worst lizard in the world. No matter what i do he will not be picked up

I think you should look at a blue tongue skink because they are slow moving and i think he might like them too. They’re not as common but they have mostly the same setup as a bearded dragon just look them up on google

To your question people go to collage, the recession, or they don’t want it

greg answers:

Rodents diseases can effect humans only in some terrible surcumstances . RARE surcumstances like the black plauge ect. Now as if ur baby got a flu ect . Ur mice or rat could catch that . Im not TOO fimilliar with this so i don’t think u should rely on me for the correct awnser.But, seriouskly i don’t reccomend u having small animals with a snake even in the same house .

greg answers:

Why are they expensive? The emerald tree boas are a bit trickier to breed, and there aren’t as many people breeding them. Simply put, supply and demand. Plus, there are tons of people importing farm bred gtp’s from new guinea, which is crashing the market on some localities, like the biaks. And they are no more aggressive than a green tree python. Now, this is just my opinion, but most arboreal keepers, who have the majority of the captive populations, don’t handle their snakes much. They are more look don’t touch types. Any snake, if handled infrequently its whole life, will be at the least, a bit cage aggressive. But if handled somewhat regularly, they can be fairly tame, though they will always have a bit of that “arboreal” attitude. As for where to get one? I’d keep an eye on the usual places, and watch for breeders postings. Then you can compile your own list of good breeders.

greg answers:

Re-home it now before you kill it. Iguanas are strict plant eaters, animal proteins and fat will build on on their organs causing kidney/liver failure; the wrong kind of fruits and vegetables will do that too. Lack of supplements, wrong diet, lack of UV ect. Will cause bone disease as well, so please before you kill it either make a 360* turn on your husbandry or place it up for adoption!

If you do decide to make that full turn and correct your husbandry issues:

NO worms, no animal proteins at all; that’ll just kill your iguana.

-
Reptile growth depends on a few factors: Diet, heat, supplements and in the case of iguanas UV exposure.

You don’t mention your temps, enclosure type or size (6ft *? *?), humidity level, type of UV bulb or tube?

>Daily diet consists of greens, nothing but good dark leafy greens. Pick as many as you can between 5-7 different types for good variety, nothing with the name “Lettuce” on it. Shred all greens to small pieces that your iguana can easily eat, if its a smaller iguana, get everything chopped as finely as you can manage.

DAILY:
>collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, endive, radicchio, arugula, mache and watercress

OCCASIONAL:
>kale, bok choy, escarole, chicory, Napa and beet greens.

SOMETIMES:
>Fruits and miscellaneous should be offered VERY sparingly, maybe once or twice a week in small amounts:
snap peas, bell peppers, parsnip, sweet potato, yam, acorn squash, butternut squash, buttercup squash
papaya , kiwi, mango, raspberries, strawberries, grapes, honeydew , cantaloupe. Remember to remove seeds and/or cores. Do not feed acidic fruits.

DO DO DO :
Sprinkle a small amount of calcium (Rep cal, ect.) on your iguana’s food for a while (2-3 times a week). With that crap diet you have he’ll need a few supplements to get him up and running.

>Proper heat means proper digestion, provide a basking spot of 90-95F for your iguana to bask, ambient temps of 80-85F and cool spots to thermoregulate when necessary. Temps should never be lower than 70′s

-
Doing research before might have saved you the pain now, but please better late than never. Do your research and do a lot of it. Your ig may already be permanently stunted, but better to begin fixing now!

TAMING:
Iguanas are skittish little buggers when young, and most of them will battle with you for the first years of their lives. Heck, some will grown into aggressive, territorial, mean tail-whippers and clawers.
Some of us have the luck to come across a well mannered iguana who will mellow out with time and patience, and a good amount of elbow grease and work; but don’t expect it!
Read the iguana den site and begin your process slowly. If your ig decides it doesn’t like you, slow down!

LINKS for you:

http://www.iguanaden.org/

http://www.greenigsociety.org/

http://www.iguanaden.org/diet/dendiet.htm

http://www.iguanaden.org/care/taming.htm

greg answers:

Don’t let the iguana eat the meal worms.
The excessive protein will bind the calcium.
Sure the ig’s like it. I’d like to be able to live off a diet of candy bars.
No the few eaten will not hurt your iguana, however the ig did lose some of his/her calcium.

My ex wife once a year would give her ig a taste of KFC and a bit of ice cream and some of my water dragons meal worms.

If the ig likes them…maybe its an unhealthy snack to treat the ig with…by the way, to get calcium/vitamin powder to stick to meal worms, dip them in water, then in calcium.

greg answers:

>Daily diet consists of greens, nothing but good dark leafy greens. Pick as many as you can between 5-7 different types for good variety, nothing with the name “Lettuce” on it. Shred all greens to small pieces that your iguana can easily eat, if its a smaller iguana, get everything chopped as finely as you can manage.

DAILY:
>collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion greens, endive, radicchio, arugula, mache and watercress

OCCASIONAL:
>kale, bok choy, escarole, chicory, Napa and beet greens.

SOMETIMES:
>Fruits and miscellaneous should be offered VERY sparingly, maybe once or twice a week in small amounts:
snap peas, bell peppers, parsnip, sweet potato, yam, acorn squash, butternut squash, buttercup squash
papaya , kiwi, mango, raspberries, strawberries, grapes, honeydew , cantaloupe. Remember to remove seeds and/or cores. Do not feed acidic fruits.

NEVER: Some of these don’t make sense, but people have asked before!
Crickets, worms, chicken, turkey, any kind of animal protein AT ALL. No dog food, cat food, turtle pellets, ect. Lettuce, acidic fruits, bird seed, rice.

IGUANA PELLETS:
Try not to. Many come with fish and meat by products, as well as too many fillers and crap that isn’t plant matter. IF you decide to use pellets pick a brand that has absolutely no by products in the ingredient list and soak them for a while to make them saggy. Dry pellets can and will dehydrate your iguana. Mix them with a few greens.

Some decent/passable brands:
Walkabout Farm Iguana Growth Mix
ZooMed Soft-moist

LINKS FOR YOU:

http://www.iguanaden.org/

http://www.greenigsociety.org/

http://www.iguanaden.org/diet/dendiet.htm

http://www.greenigsociety.org/commercial.htm

greg answers:

Here is some brief care info, it will give you an idea of what a good diet for an Ig should consist of. Also check the website at the bottom.

Diet-

45% leafy greens such as collards, mustards, dandelion, kale. NO lettuces.
45% hard vegetables such as orange flesh squash(butternut, spaghetti,acorn pumpkin), fresh green beans, fresh peas, green bell peppers, parsnips.
10% fruit such as figs, mangoes, papaya, pears.
Do not feed animal protein and commercial Iguana food it is very unhealthy.

Lighting-
They need a UV light(ex. Reptisun 5.0 or greater I use 10.0) They need to be changed every 6-8 months.

Heat-
Basking spot 90 degrees F the rest of the tank should be 75-80. Get a digital thermometer to measure the temperatures.

They need humidity so you should spray them few times per day. You should also give it a bath every other day in warm water.

This website has everything you need to know about Igs.

Http://www.anapsid.org/iguana/

greg answers:

Iguanas are herbivores so feeding them meal worms is a pretty bad idea. I actually own 2 iguanas and before I got them I did a lot of research the vet is actually extremely wrong what ever you do you shouldn’t feed your iguana the meal worms stick to what your already feeding him.

greg answers:

Your iguana will die if you feed her animal protein, first the kidneys will fail and she will go backwards fast. Iguanas are folivores meaning that their diet mainly consist of leaves rather than fruits or seeds. The iguana is the only lizard that lives in trees and feeds on trees eating leaves, flowers and fruit. The iguana and all true herbivorous lizards has a hindgut inhabited by bacteria able to digest the cellulose in plants. Here is a guide to the complete diet that your iguana must eat: http://reptile-parrots.com/forums/showthread.php?124-Iguana-Diet

greg answers:

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greg answers:

1) No.
Fair enough they like ‘together’ in the wild, but i’m fairly certain that whatever enclosure you have is not several tens of square meters and so the animals will not have enough room to get away from each other and to have their own territories.
As an owner it is completely your responsibility to give your pets the best life possible. Keeping such different animals together in an enclosed space will only end in stress, injury and possibly even disease. There is no definite way to say whether or not the animals will out right attack each other, but it sure as hell is not worth the risk.
There is absolutely no benefit in keeping them together and so i urge you not to do it.

2) Again, not only is there absolutely no benefit in different animals living together, but there is no benefit in putting animals together to ‘play’.
Puppies are boisterous and like to play rough; reptiles like to chill out. They do not play and would perceive play as an attack.
Once again there is no way to say whether or not animals will attack each other but the risk will ALWAYS be there so really i just wouldnt bother if i were you….

greg answers:

Kale, go to the grocery store, get him some greens! And some fruit!